Kate Logan Beauty

Vegan Friendly Skincare

2011-03-12T09:27:00.001-08:00

After an absolute eternity of searching and researching I have finally found the perfect Vegan alternative to Beeswax. As you know I REFUSE to use Palm Oil and no longer use Soy, so I needed to find an ethically sourced, Vegan friendly alternative to Beeswax. So now (drum roll please!), I am delighted to introduce fabulous Almond Wax to my list of gloriously effective ingredients. Almond Wax is chock full of delectable skin loving nutrients and makes the perfect addition to my balms. It creates a rich balm that nourishes and protects skin.

Bespoke Beauty

2011-03-12T09:21:00.001-08:00

Gosh, it was so, so lovely to discover that my skincare range was chosen to appear in the gorgeous "Bespoke Buys" feature in the February edition of Easy Living magazine. To read more amazing press reviews of the range just click on - "Fab Press Reviews".

Phenomenal Fennel Nourish Oil

2011-03-12T09:19:00.001-08:00

Did you catch the fab, fab review of my phenomenal Fennel Nourish Oil on the Interview site? If not, take a peek at it - "Winter Relief For Seasonally Effective Beauty".

the leg room: Great Kate: this week's guest postette

2010-09-25T12:13:00.000-07:00

Oooh, I'm so, so, so delighted to have been invited to be this week's guest blogger on the oh, so fabulous Leg Room blog so click on the link below and read on....

the leg room: Great Kate: this week's guest postette: "Meet Kate. Yes, another brilliant Kate (is it possible?) This is Kate Logan, facialist, aromatherapist and creator of Kate Logan Aromather..."

A Simple Checklist Of Rosacea Symptoms

2010-09-05T12:00:00.000-07:00

To make things a little bit easier I have compiled a simple checklist of symptoms that are experienced by those with Rosacea.

Do you suffer from really sensitive skin?
Does your skin have a hard time tolerating skincare and cosmetics?
Do you regularly breakout in a flush or blush?
And when you do blush, does the redness last longer than 15 minutes?
Do you have redness on cheek and nose area that doesn’t ever diminish?
When you are stressed out does your skin redden and become extra temperamental?
Do you have any broken blood vessels on your face?
Do you have any little red spots that don’t seem to heal?
Have you ever suffered really bad (and I mean peeling/blistering bad?) sunburn in the past?
Are your eyes quite sensitive to sunlight?
Do extremes of temperature (either sticky summer heat or freezing winters) cause your skin to suffer long term redness?
Does just a few moments in the sun cause your skin to flush and does the redness then last for a day or so?
If you eat hot, spicy foods, drink hot drinks or enjoy the occasional tipple do you find that your skin flushes?
Do your eyes feel scratchy and irritated?
Do your eyes tear up easily and appear bloodshot?

OK, you guessed it! If you answered yes to more than two of these questions you may be suffering from Rosacea and I would recommend you to hotfoot it straight down to the Dr. It's absolutely essential that you get the correct diagnosis and the earlier you seek advice and treatment the more likely you will be to control the condition.

Rosacea - An Introduction

2010-09-05T11:51:00.000-07:00

Rosacea has to be the number one skin condition I get questioned about. It affects so many and can be a stressful and really upsetting condition to deal with. So I'm devoting the next few posts to share some information that I hope will help you to take control and make some better choices for your skin.

What Is Rosacea?

Rosacea is an inflammatory skin disorder linked to the vascular system (hence the redness). It’s characterized by reddening of the skin (and sometimes swelling). It generally appears on the face (usually around cheeks & nose in a tell tale butterfly pattern ), forehead, chin, ears & neck, but can also appear on the chest & back. It’s a condition that at the start can be easily misdiagnosed; sometimes the redness is taken for an allergic reaction to skincare, sunburn or even acne. It’s a grown up skin condition as it tends to strike the over 30’s. Those with fair or Celtic skin types are most likely to suffer from Rosacea and women are more susceptible to this condition then men. But sorry guys, I’m afraid your more likely to suffer from a more severe form of Rosacea, with more redness and the lumpy, bumpiness of skin inflammation (especially on the nose).

The bad news is nobody knows exactly what causes Rosacea. There are a myriad of theories about the cause that range from intestinal infections, hereditary condition, sun damage, immune system, some even reckon it’s caused by an icky little mite which lives in hair follicles and clogs oil glands, which leads to that acne type inflammation. Rosacea cannot be cured but with a little bit of knowledge and the right skincare routine you can bring back some balance to your skin.

Fabulous Elle Decoration

2010-09-05T07:58:00.000-07:00

Check out the October edition of the deliciously glamorous "Elle Decoration" magazine. Notice a familiar face? Yes, 'tis me featuring in the "How I Relax" column. I really can't believe how much positive press reaction my little range continues to gather. All I can say is a huge, huge, HUGE thank you!

The Truth, The Whole Truth And Nothing But The Truth

2009-12-26T17:58:00.000-08:00

Skincare ought to be simple, but as each week goes by another product is launched and another new (or should I say rehashed!) trend is reported. My hope is that this blog will provide you with all the information that you need to make the best choice for your skin. I also hope that this blog will be able to blast through a lot of the beauty myths. So, lets begin and we'll start at the very beginning (I've heard its a very good place to start!) .....

Forget Your Age, Especially When Choosing Skincare Products

Its very easy to create cookie cutter skincare. The cosmetic companies make it seem all so easy - young people have oily skin and the more mature among us suffer from dry skin. Therefore highly irritating products are targeted at the young, causing dry & irritated skin; thick, gloppy and overly emollient products are targeted at mature skin types causing breakouts and dull looking skin. Find the product to tackle the problems you are currently experiencing, not the problem that cosmetics companies think you should be suffering "at your age"! So pay attention to what your skin is telling you.

Say Goodbye To Normal, It Never Really Existed Anyway!

OK, stick with me here as this may really shock you; there is no such thing as normal skin. Alright, there is such a thing as normal skin, its that gorgeously blemish free, velvety textured and delectably plump skin that is only ever seen on children. Sorry to say but as soon as you hit puberty and your hormones are set to turbodrive you can wave goodbye to "normal". Its very convenient for cosmetic companies to continue this myth as it enables them to hold the trophy of normal skin just tantalisingly within your grasp, that is just as long as you use the full range of products that they have targeted to solve your so called "problems". Your skin cannot be frozen in time (ok, it can but it would take bucket loads of botox), its a living organ and its constantly changing. The best possible skincare regime will combat the difficulties that your skin encounters on a daily basis and for this reason it must be flexible and adaptable to your needs.

Skin Type? Forget All You've Been Told

Your skin type is not written in stone, despite what the cosmetic companies would have you believe. Its terribly easy to categorise people; but it doesn't really help if you are experiencing acne in your forties! Skin is your body's largest organ and its role is to protect you from outside forces, not to mention the myriad of products you put on it. The state of your skin is not frozen in time, your skin is constantly changing and adapting to counteract all the stress it is put under. The key to looking after your skin in the best way possible is not just about finding out the underlying "skin type" but discovering and acknowledging the other factors that can impact on the condition of your skin. Genetics do play a part, but by taking control and making informed choices you will get the skin you deserve!

Lifestyle Choices

Smoking, Sun Exposure and Alcohol. OK, I know its the fun stuff, but who said being shallow was easy!!!

Environment

If you are a city or country dweller, whether you live in a hot, dry climate or a cool. drizzly climate! Skincare must be tailored to the environment that surrounds you. It also makes a great deal of sense to adapt your regime to the seasons; as what helps protect your skin in winter really won't cut it in summer.

Emotions

Stress and anxiety can really take their toll on your skin. They can bring on an attack of acne and even cause you to break out in a rash. If you suffer from any skin condition I am sure you have noticed that stressful times in your life will exacerbate the problem.

Product Usage

Using the incorrect product for your skin or using the right product incorrectly can negatively impact your skin. Products with harsh ingredients can trigger terrible consequences. The products you use might very well be causing the problems you are seeking a solution too!

Medication

Some medicines can cause you to suffer some terrible skin related side effects. But by just taking into account the medication and making some adjustments to your skincare regime you can head off any potential problems before they occur.It really isn't too difficult, its just simply being aware of the choices you make and how they can affect the health of your skin.

Be Kind To Your Skin!

2009-12-26T17:53:00.000-08:00

Step away from the magnifying mirror and let yourself off the hook. Rest assured that is not how the rest of the world sees you. That is unless you carry around your own hideous fluorescent lighting and invite all and sundry to check out your pores with your handy handbag size magnifying glass! One teeny weeny spot does not mean you have acne. One fine little expression line does not mean you need to be prodded with a syringe full of botox. Be kind to yourself and be honest, it really is liberating! I have seen far too many facial clients who have overreacted to a simple stress breakout, gone out and purchased mega watt acne treatments and created red, irritated and very, very, very spotty skin for themselves. Deep down we are all truly sensitive souls and that includes our skin. Would you wash a baby's delicate skin with harsh products loaded with chemicals, follow on with a drench of alcohol rich toner then follow immediately with either a thick and uber cloying cream or a moisturizer chock full of acids that will "reveal your skins natural radiance". Hmm, didn't think so! Your skin already has the ability to reveal its radiance naturally, its your job to treat it as gently as possible and support its own inbuilt protection and rejuvenating ability. It certainly doesn't need any harsh chemicals it just needs you to treat it kindly and protect it from the harmful rays of the sun.

Your Skin (the basics!)

2009-12-26T17:50:00.000-08:00

Before we delve into the fabulous world of skin type lets take a short detour and learn some basic (I promise you I won't ramble on!) physiology. Just knowing the physical make up of your skin will make it so much easier for you to cut through all the nonsense of those so called "miracle" products and enable you to make the best possible choice for your skin. Your skin isn't just a gorgeous layer of loveliness; it does some very important work. It provides protection from the elements, maintains your body temperature, eliminates toxins, protects you from all sorts of bacterial nasties and best of all is home to all those gorgeous nerve endings which give you your glorious sense of touch!

Epidermis
The epidermis is constantly being renewed. It takes around 28 days for the skin cells to travel from the base of the epidermis to the top, unfortunately this process slows as we age. This is why many skincare companies produce quite harsh skin treatments to irritate the skin and slough off dead cells in the hope of speeding up the process of epidermal regeneration. Unfortunately these harsh products are extremely effective causing the skin to become irritated and inflamed. Even more worrying is the fact they thin the skin making it even more susceptible to sun damage & broken capillaries! Your epidermis has six layers (don't worry, I won't bore you, I'll just stick to the need to know!). The uppermost layer (the bit you can feel) is called the stratum corneum. It's tightly packed with scaly cells called keratinocytes. These cells are little elevators that move upward from the bottom of the epidermis to the top, but on their journey they stop at every floor to fill up with keratin. Keratin is a tough little protein that provides the skin with its waterproof barrier. The barrier that those cells create forms a protective layer that protects against harm from water loss, pollutants and unfriendly bacteria. At the base of the epidermis you will find melanocytes. These fab little cells are responsible for producing melanin, which protects your skin and the underlying tissue from sunlight. Melanin produces the pigment that causes your skin to tan. Melanocytes produce and move melanin in cells called melanosomes; these little cells are then taken up by the keratinocytes on their journey to the top of the epidermis.

Another Good Reason To Use SPF
The epidermis also contains Langerhan cells, which provide protection for the immune system against invading micro organisms, viruses and bacteria. When skin becomes damaged by UV radiation it also damages the Langerhan cells, causing few to survive in the skin and carry on providing protection for your immune system.

Dermis
Located directly under the epidermis, the dermis acts as a support. This is the skins most active layer, its where the most vital functions take place. The dermis contains (amongst other things!) blood vessels, nerve fibres, lymph glands and of course collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin are that wonderful duo of fibres that give your skin its flexibility and strength. Think of them as a firm mattress providing your skin with real tone. Collagen and elastin's mortal enemy is the sun. UV rays are kryptonite to this fabulous duo, causing them to become damaged which in turn causes skin to become wrinkly and saggy (the not so fabulous duo!).

Sunscreens - Labels Unscrambled!

2009-12-26T17:46:00.000-08:00

What does SPF mean?
All sunscreens in the UK are labelled with the letters SPF. SPF stands for sun protection factor. The SPF number is determined in lab tests by exposing skin to a light spectrum that mimics the level of UV at midday. The SPF is the level of protection that is offered against UVB (it’s the measure of time that you can stay in the sun with sunscreen on before redness occurs on the skin). So if you are a person who would start to burn after about 10 minutes in the sun without sunscreen then by applying an SPF 15 (10 minutes till burn time x 15 spf = 150) you would gain 150 minutes of UVB protection.

UVA & Star System
On sunscreens purchased in the UK you will find the UVA logo (“UVA” printed in a circle) accompanied by up to 5 stars.The UVA logo indicates that the UVA protection is at least a 1/3 of that of the SPF.The stars indicate the amount of UVA rays absorbed by the sunscreen in comparison to the UVB. So if you purchase a sunscreen with a low SPF, it might have a high star rating but that doesn’t mean its got super powerful UVA protection it just means that the correlation of UVA & UVB protection is about the same. So to ensure that your skin is getting the best protection opt for a sunscreen that has both a high SPF and high UVA star rating, these are the sunscreens that are referred to as “broad spectrum”.SPF in MoisturizersThough they are tested in exactly the same way as regular sunscreens, they are less likely to give you the same level of protection. They tend to be thinner formulations and don’t last on the skin as long as a separate sunscreen. Though they are perfectly adequate for limited exposure to the UV that you will encounter in your daily routine but for exposure time of over an hour you are better off with a separate sunscreen.

Organic & Inorganic Filters
If you only buy one single skincare product PLEASE make it sunscreen. Unfortunately buying sunscreen can be both confusing and frustrating, so lets go through the basics of sunscreen.

How Do Sunscreens Actually Work?
Sunscreens are available in two types Organic and Inorganic filters.

Organic Filters (also known as Chemical Filters)
Don’t think that “Organic” means lovely, all natural ingredients organically grown; I’m afraid its just the scientific term for this type of sunscreen. Organic Filters work by actually absorbing UV radiation, converting it to heat and then allowing it to disperse “harmlessly“. Organic Filters tend to absorb more UVB than UVA rays. Organic Filters are absorbed by the skin and secreted in the urine. Dermatologists advise that this type of sunscreen should not be used by women who are pregnant or breastfeeding and should NOT be used on children.

Inorganic Filters (also known as Physical Sunscreens)
Inorganic Filters protect the skin by providing a physical block against UV rays. They tend to be opaque and have a thicker consistency (but they are getting lighter and better!). I prefer Inorganic Filters as they are not absorbed by the skin and at the end of the day can be simple cleansed away. They are also more suited to sensitive skin as they rarely cause any problems. Think of Inorganic Filters working like a mirror on your skin reflecting away those nasty UV rays. There is a great debate about Organic V Inorganic Filters, more of which later.

The Sun & Your Skin

2009-12-26T17:42:00.000-08:00

To really make the best choices for your skin you do need to know about UV. Ultra Violet Radiation from the sun is categorized into three different bands - UVA, UVB & UVC. Don’t worry about UVC, it gets filtered out by the atmosphere and doesn’t reach the earth’s surface. But we all have to be concerned about UVA & UVB radiation.

UVA - Think A for ageing.
UVA is a major culprit in the process of skin ageing. It is a pretty insidious thing as it travels deeper into the skin than UVB. It penetrates deep into the dermis and damages collagen. Damage to the collagen causes the skin to increase its production of elastin, but this is not a good thing! The large amount of enzymes being produced also results in a large amount of enzymes (metalloproteinases). The goal of these enzymes is to rebuild damaged collagen but unfortunately they don’t do that job well (think of them as the dodgy builders of the dermis world). They often break down and damage the collagen even further resulting in incorrectly rebuilt skin. As this process is repeated with daily UVA exposure, the incorrectly rebuilt skin forms wrinkles and the depleted collagen results in leathery skin. Its hard to escape the damaging power of UVA as it can even penetrate glass, so even sitting by a window on a sunny day or on a car journey we are all susceptible to UVA damage.

UVB - Think B for burn.
At first glance UVB doesn’t seem to be as threatening to your skin as UVA but trust me on this; it is very, very, very destructive! Though UVB rays don’t travel as far into the skin as UVA rays they are still incredibly damaging. UVB causes sunburn and sunburn is directly linked to skin cancers such as malignant melanoma and basal cell carcinoma. If after reading that last sentence I cannot persuade you to use a sunscreen I give up in absolute despair!!!

A Healthy Tan?

2009-12-26T17:40:00.000-08:00

So sorry to disappoint you but there is no such thing as a healthy tan! A tan is visible proof that your skin has been damaged. In my earlier description of the structure of your skin I mentioned cells called melanocytes. These cells produce a dark brown pigment called melanin which gives the skin its natural colour. When skin is exposed to UV rays the melanocytes spring into action by producing more melanin in a bid to absorb the UV and protect the underlying structure. I suppose you could say that melanin is your body’s natural sunscreen but with an SPF of just 2 it really offers only the scarcest of protection. Even if you possess gorgeous skin of colour such as an Afro-Caribbean or Asian skin tone you still need to protect your skin. Yes, darker skin does have increased melanin, but definitely not enough to protect you from the harsh effects of UV rays. The sun may feel good on your skin but UV rays cause the skin to age rapidly - leading to uneven pigmentation, leathery texture and deep wrinkles. Repeated sun exposure can also cause age spots. An age spot is really a solar lento (a tiny bit of pigmentation caused by sun exposure). But the dangers of sun exposure are not just on the surface. Your skin protects your body from destructive outside forces and contains the necessary elements that are essential to the good health of your immune system. The epidermis (outer layer of skin) contains Langerhan Cells which prevent bacteria from attacking your immune system and just a few minutes of UV exposure can damage these cells. The best way to protect yourself is by using an effective sunscreen, of which more later!

Oily Skin

2009-12-26T17:38:00.001-08:00

Oily skin is easily identified by its areas of shine and sometimes lumpy, bumpy texture. The good news is that it ages far slower than other skin types, unfortunately it can be a frustrating skin type to deal with. Make up doesn't seem to last, shiny areas appear by mid afternoon and the inevitable breakouts really can bring you down. Oily skin is caused by the overproduction of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Sebum is absolutely essential to the good health of skin, in fact it is your skins natural moisturizer, it locks in moisture and keeps skin soft and supple. Sebum flows out through the pores and coats the skin, giving your skin unbeatable protection. Unfortunately when excess sebum is produced it coats the skin cells in your pores which causes them to stick together, blocking the pore. As this is happening sebum is still being produced in the lower level of your skin and its travelling upwards. The blocked pore causes a back up of sebum (its like when you are behind that incredibly slow couple getting off the escalator, you sort of have to sneak out at the side of them to avoid a collision!) causing the pores to stretch as more sebum is produced. Bingo, thats how those nasty lumps and bumps that you can feel just under the surface of your skin are caused. You may have a predisposition for this skin type but with a few simple changes you can take control.

Be Gentle!
Steer clear of all those nasty, horrid chemical laden products. Harsh products irritate your skin and dry it out. When this happens your skins natural reaction is to protect and repair itself; as a consequence the sebaceous glands are kick started into producing more sebum to protect the skin and lock in moisture. Hey Presto, even more oil!

Exfoliation
I'm not suggesting you recreate the opening scene from Mommie Dearest, but gentle exfoliation will ensure that your pores are clear of blockages and sebum can flow freely out onto the skin.

Allow Your Skin To Breathe
You don't always need to slather on a moisturizer, sometimes its a good idea to give your skin a break. Your skin is a highly effective organ which is more than capable of repairing and restoring itself. Just take a break every few evenings and go to bed without any moisturizer, this simple step will allow your skin to just take a break from processing all the goodies you load it with and utilise its own innate healing nature.

Mature, Aargh, I Hate That Description!

2009-12-26T17:34:00.003-08:00

Back in my training days I was taught that a mature skin type was anyone over the age of 25 (how depressing is that?). But to be honest I never bought into that theory. Yes, changes do occur as we get older but lifestyle choices and genetics play their part too. Skin ageing is reflected in two ways - intrinsic & extrinsic ageing.

Intrinsic Ageing - Bad news; this is the stuff you can't change, its your genetics and it happens to us all darling! Good news; on a physical (and purely shallow level!!!) this is not as noticeable as the effects of extrinsic ageing are. The signs of intrinsic ageing are sneakily slow. Subtle changes take place within the structure of your skin. The epidermis thins, there is a loss of collagen and fat within the skin, elastin fibres become coarser, hair follicles and oil glands become less dense and oil production slows down.

Extrinsic Ageing - Bad news, this is the stuff that makes you look older than your peers. The good news is that you can fight this. Extrinsic ageing is down to environment and lifestyle choices. Long term exposure to UV rays is responsible for the majority of extrinsic ageing problems such as spider veins, pigmented skin, thick, rough texture and wrinkles.

Dry & Dehydrated Skin

2009-12-26T17:30:00.000-08:00

Dry skin feels hot to the touch, has areas of flakiness (particularly around the nose and cheek area). The skin is also prone to very fine lines, but don't worry, these are only dryness lines and do tend to disappear when you apply a nourishing product to the area. The skin can feel uncomfortably tight after cleansing. Dry skin is caused by a lack of natural oil (sebum) and moisture in the skin. Unfortunately, due to this lack of protective oil the skin does show signs of ageing sooner than other skin types. Your skin is made up of around 70% water, but as the skin cells travel up through the dermis and epidermis towards the surface much of that water content evaporates. If too much water evaporates the skin becomes parched and as a consequence the natural oils are depleted and less water is held in the skin. You may have a natural predisposition to dry skin but it can also be triggered by some of the following:

Irritating Products
anti-ageing treatments and products targeted to soothe breakout can be real culprits.

Sun Exposure
Sorry to go on, but please use a decent spf!

Extremes of Temperature
Extreme hot or cold can injure skin cells, causing skin to dehydrate and cause surface capillaries. Please be very wary of facial treatments that involve any extremes of temperature, they really are not necessary and can cause a whole load of problems!

Combination Is Pretty Normal!

2009-12-26T17:28:00.000-08:00

I don't believe in the myth of "normal" skin, I actually believe that the basic skin type that each and every one of us shares is combination skin. All skin is dry in some areas and oily in others; its down to the distribution of your sebaceous glands, the stuff that produces sebum. Sebaceous glands aren't neatly and evenly distributed around your body; they are more abundant on the scalp, forehead, nose and sides of nose, while scarcer around the eyes, neck and outer cheek area. Treating this skin type doesn't have to be complicated at all. Skincare should be flexible anyway; you need to take into account your current lifestyle, environment and those pesky hormonal cycles. With a gentle skincare regime and an awareness of your skin you can head off any trouble.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

2009-12-26T17:24:00.000-08:00

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (also known as AHA’s) are chemicals that occur naturally in fruits, milk and sugar, but don’t be fooled by the natural description as 99% of AHA’s used in cosmetics are synthetic. AHA’s are used in cosmetics & skincare products for a variety of purposes; from smoothing fine lines and surface wrinkles, improving skin texture and tone, unblocking and cleansing pores and to adjust the PH level in skin. But it really all depends on the concentration that the AHA’s are used at. At a low concentration they work as a water binding agent, at a higher concentration they are used to exfoliate skin cells. AHA’s exfoliate by causing the surface of the skin to shed (they break down the substance the glues skin cells together). Beware as AHA’s are notorious skin irritants, as they slough off skin they make it more susceptible to irritation and UV damage. A US study found that users of AHA’s had an increased sensitivity to UV and that on average UV induced cellular damage doubled. The worrying thing is that the effect lasted up to a week after AHA usage had stopped.

Kate’s Golden Rules For Safe AHA Use

Rule Number One
If you must use an AHA choose either Glycolic (for exfoliation) or Lactic (for skin moisturizing as it acts as a humectant). Avoid Malic or Citric acids as they are less stable, less researched and will also irritate your skin.

Rule Number Two
If you do experience any irritation, even if it is just a mild itching or redness stop using the product immediately. Whatever the manufacturer would have you believe; skincare shouldn’t sting or cause any pain. Irritation and redness is your skin telling you the product is harmful.

Rule Number Three
If you are using an AHA, don’t use it every single day, give your skin a break as it doesn’t need to be constantly bombarded with chemicals. Your skin has the natural ability to heal itself, give your skin a vacation and allow it to do what it was designed to do!

Rule Number Four
Avoid high concentration AHA products and salon treatments. Unfortunately I have encountered too many clients who have come to me with highly irritated, painful and peeling skin after attempting to perform an AHA peel at home or undergoing a salon Glycolic peel. If you do feel that your skin needs this treatment please see a dermatologist. AHA’s are not harmless little ingredients, they are pretty serious acids. A dermatologist will be able to advise and treat your skin with the level of AHA that is right for your skin and advise you on the correct aftercare.

The Wonderful World Of Pimples!

2009-12-26T17:14:00.000-08:00

WHAT IS ACNE?

Besides being annoying, frustrating and seemingly never-ending, Acne is technically an inflammatory disorder of the sebaceous glands (wow bet you feel better now!). Its incredibly common and can strike at any age. Though it tends to rear its ugly head around puberty, it can strike in your twenties, thirties and beyond. Breakouts tend to occur where sebaceous glands are most prominent - face, back & chest. Its characterised by this wonderful group of delightful carbuncles:

COMEDONES

Also known as blackheads and whiteheads. Blackheads appear when the opening of the hair follicle becomes blocked with dead skin cells, oil and bacteria. A blackhead is not dirt, the contents of the follicle become dark when exposed to air. Whiteheads (not to be confused with Milia, more of that later!). These are very similar to blackheads accept that the opening is covered so the contents are not exposed to the air. They take on a slightly raised appearance (you can feel them if you run your fingers over your skin) and are filled with an icky white pus.

PAPULES

A small raised angry red bump that is created when a pore ruptures due to the release of oil, skin cells and other debris. Bacteria infects the pore and voila a startlingly horrid zit appears. If the inflammation really takes hold an absolutely horrendous pustule is created (in other words a whacking great pus filled spot) that not only fills the pimple with pus but extends well below skin surface to spread its horrid wrath!

PUSTULES

The nasty big brother of the papule. Again they are very red, very tender and usually filled with white pus in the centre.

NODULES

Horrible, horrible, horrible! These dreadful lumps are located just under the skin surface, they feel incredibly solid and incredibly painful when you touch them.

CYSTS

These are the nastiest of all breakouts. Very painful, pus filled lumps that are just beneath the surface of the skin. You must see your Doctor if a breakout of this type occurs as incorrect treatment (such as picking and squeezing) will worsen infection and cause serious scarring.

HOW IS ACNE CAUSED?

There are three main factors that are to blame for breakouts.

Excess Production of Sebum - Sebum is essential to healthy skin, it provides a protective layer and acts as your skins natural moisturizer but when production gets out of control that’s when the trouble really starts. I’m afraid its time to get hormonal and its all down to testosterone (and believe it or not this manly little hormone is present in women too!). Some of us are incredibly reactive to the presence of testosterone. Sensitivity to testosterone causes sebum production to go into overdrive and as a consequence excess oil is produced.

Slow Shedding of Skin Cells - In a perfect world, dead skin cells should slough off naturally but in reality they don’t. Though a good cleansing routine certainly helps the process; sometimes dead skin cells and other debris collect in the hair follicle causing irritation and creating the ideal breeding ground for zit causing bacteria.

Bacteria Buildup - The bacteria that causes acne (Propionibacterium Acnes) happily resides on everyone’s skin and usually causes absolutely no problems at all. But add in the previous two problems and you create the perfect environment for a breakout to occur. The bacteria multiplies, inflammation ensues and a breakout occurs.

Other factors that may cause breakouts

Hormonal changes - These really have an effect on the amount of testosterone produced so acne breakouts tend to occur in teenage years (that lovely rollercoaster ride of horrid hormonal fluctuation), breakouts also occur 4-5 days before the start of your period. Also don’t think that pregnancy will guarantee you glowing skin as hormonal disruption means that a breakout may well occur.

Medications - If you are currently using medication, check with your Dr as some meds (such as cortisone) can cause breakouts.

Family History - Yes, I’m afraid acne can be hereditary; so its something else you can blame on your parents.

Harsh Cleansing Products - Acne breakouts should be treat gently, forget all the harsh products. Chemical laden products just dry out the skin and irritate it even further (remember it is an inflammatory condition). Scrubbing away at the skin and constantly bombarding it with harsh products only makes matters worse.

Pressure on the skin - Items of clothing like tight collars, bra straps and such like put constant pressure on your skin. This friction just irritates and add to that just a dash of sweat and you have the perfect formula for a breakout. Also make sure that your telephones are kept scrupulously clean, give them a wipe over each day with an antibacterial wipe as they do harbour a platoon of icky bacteria.

Can Acne Be Cured?

It can’t be cured but you can keep it under control with some simple changes.

Kate’s Golden Rules for Acne Prevention

Teat your skin with care, use a simple cleansing routine and please avoid those horrid cleansing wipes. I know they “save time” but they do not clean your skin effectively and still leave trace amounts of dirt, make-up and cleanser from the wipe on your face. Avoid irritating products such as scrubs, astringents and chemical laden “miracle cures”. Also make sure that your hair care products stay on your hair. Its easy for hair serums, sprays, etc to end up on your forehead and on sides of face. These are pretty tough products and they will irritate your skin.

Always remove make up before bed.

Don’t dry your skin on any old towel, keep a fresh, clean towel to one side and use it to pat dry your face after cleansing (Don‘t Share It!!!).

Stay out of the sun. The sun worsens acne and slows down the healing process. Plus, if you are using a harsh skincare regimen, you will be more susceptible to the damaging power of UV.

Don’t ever pick or squeeze spots. I know at times you just can’t resist but please BE STRONG. Picking, scratching and squeezing spots will cause the infection to go deeper into skin and spread the infection. Also constant fiddling with the zit will only extend the life of the spot and may cause scarring.

How Do I Treat A Breakout?

2009-12-26T17:10:00.000-08:00

Dear Kate, how do I treat a breakout?

Sara L.

Dear Sara,

We all suffer breakouts at some point. The causes are widespread; stress, hormonal fluctuations, incorrect product usage. I know its tempting (and oh so satisfying!) to pop a pimple but HANDS OFF! A spot has a natural lifespan of three days, when you touch it, pick at it or squeeze it you create a longer lasting inflammation. Over time excess picking and squeezing can result in pigment changes (creating areas of darker skin) and scarring. Squeezing a spot causes the ickyness to move deeper down into the pimple and that can develop into a very painful and exceedingly ugly cyst.

Acne 1o1

To understand the best way to treat a breakout, its imperative to understand exactly what a pimple is, then you can treat the breakout effectively. When a pore gets clogged with dirt and sebum (the skin's own natural moisturizer), the oil and bacteria are trapped inside and the resulting infection shows itself in the form of a pimple. Over zealous scrubbing and squeezing will only worsen the problem, even extending the lifespan of the spot for up to two weeks. The right way to treat acne is to use products that are gentle, won't irritate your skin and allow your skin to find its own natural balance. Its also a good idea to give your skin a break for just a few days a week by skipping your usual nighttime moisturizer. This will enable your skin to really breathe, get back its natural balance and kick start its own natural healing process.

The Fine Art of Disguise

Before applying your make up, dab a little of my Breakout Balm on the spot. With a blend of anti-inflammatory essential oils and balancing hazelnut oil, this gentle balm will ensure your pimple will heal naturally. Applying the balm will soften the area and take away that horrid crusty carbuncle look. Apply concealer (a thicker, stick concealer seems to cover better and last longer) with a concealer brush. Using a brush enables you to put the concealer exactly where you need it and also keeps your fingers off the spot! When you have applied the concealer, set it with just a tiny amount of powder so that the concealed area blends in well with the skin. Its also a good idea to use just a bit of extra blush, thereby attracting all and sundry to your healthy glow and not the spot!

Tinted Moisturizer, Does It Cover?

2009-12-26T17:05:00.000-08:00

Dear Kate, I'm not entirely convinced a tinted moisturizer will give the coverage I need, what do I do?

Nicola T.

Dear Nicola,

Summer is on its way and the last thing you need is that horrid, heavy foundation feeling. Tinted moisturizer will give you a lovely sheer finish that will look flawless if you follow my foolproof action plan for a not so natural, natural look!

Step One - Tools of the Trade

Any base product will look so much better if you apply with a foundation brush. But the secret to a great foundation brush is price, cheap ones work great! Oh dear, I've shocked you. There is a reason behind my cheapness (trust me I speak from experience), pricey, natural bristle brushes really soak up the base whereas with the not so natural bristle foundation brush, the product just sits on it and transfers easily to your skin and provide great coverage.

Step Two - Application

Dot the tinted moisturizer on forehead, nose, cheekbones and jawline. With foundation brush start at centre of face, and use short, downward strokes to ensure smooth coverage. Remember to blend in well around hairline and jawline, this is no time for telltale lines.

Step Three - Conceal, Conceal, Conceal!

Eye Area: Dot concealer under eyes with ring finger.Spots/Areas of discolouration: With a small pointed concealer brush, dab a thicker formulation concealer on the redness/discolouration only. Then set with a light dusting of a translucent powder.

Step Four - Get the Glow

Embrace the fresh new you by using a sheer cream blush to give just that flash of gorgeous glow! Finally, just a quick spray of Miracle Spritz will ensure your make up stays put and will also leave you with a delectable glow.

Deflate Those Bags!

2009-12-26T17:02:00.000-08:00

Dear Kate, I'm plagued by nasty, puffy skin below my eyes. How do I get rid of them?
Julie T.

Dear Julie,
Puffiness around your eyes is caused by many factors; allergies, sleep deprivation, alcohol, too much salt in your diet and even a blubbery bout of tears! Different though they are, all these things have one thing in common, they are all irritants which will cause any excess fluid to settle temporarily under the skin. Unfortunately as we grow older our skin does thin causing this problem to be even more apparent. Skin around your eye area shows any fluid retention far more than any other bit! If you have partied a little to hard and overindulged in way too many dirty martinis (salty olives + vodka equals mucho puffiness!!) you can do your bit to combat the inevitable. When you get home drink, drink, drink; water that is! Drinking water will help your skin flush out your system. If allergies or a broken heart are the cause, pop an antihistamine before bed. Whatever the cause it is always good to plump up the pillows before you get into bed. Sleeping with your head slightly raised will help prevent excess fluid from pooling around your eyes.

To Soothe Away Puffiness
Take two chamomile tea bags (chamomile has a wonderful anti-inflammatory action and it is oh so soothing!) Dunk them in cool water, pop in a plastic bag and put in the freezer for about 15 minutes or so. Then remove the tea bags, retreat to your bed ensuring that your head is elevated, close eyes and place each tea bag so it rests on the eyelid and under eye area. Now comes the tough part; relax for a good 10 minutes. Remove tea bags and then gently rinse skin with tepid water.

Be Gentle
When eyes are puffy they are irritated. Avoid any product containing AHA's, BHA's or Retinols. They're goal is to kick start exfoliation, which irritates skin and increases the swelling. I formulated my Argan Eye Balm specifically to soothe the delicate skin around the eye and combat puffiness. Argan oil is a rich, nutrient packed oil that helps moisturize and rejuvenate delicate skin, while a dash of Roman Chamomile essential oil with its gentle anti-inflammatory action and power to calm even the most sensitive skin ensures that delicate skin is soothed and restored.

Depuffing Facial Massage
Use the flat part of your finger, just below your fingertips. Place finger on either side of nose (around sinus area). Gently (and I mean gently, this is your lovely face we're dealing with!!) massage skin in a circular motion, pushing skin slightly upward as you go. Working upwards and outwards (use your cheekbones as a guide; work slightly above them directly on the fleshy parts) along the cheeks and then ending at the outer eye area. Gently sweep back to nose and begin again. Repeat 5 times. This gentle kneading action will help to push built up fluid out of the skin tissue so it will drain (depuff!) faster.

Do I Need A Make Up Primer?

2009-12-26T17:00:00.001-08:00

Dear Kate, I hear so much about make up primers, are they worth buying?

Andrea W.

Dear Andrea,

A make up primer is designed to temporarily smooth your skin. It usually contains silicones & polymers which create a smooth surface and waxes which bind with your make up to give it longevity. Not everyone needs a primer. Make up primer is really suited to those who have uneven skin texture (perhaps due to old scars) since they level out the skin. Its also helpful for those whose lip colour feathers due to fine lines or who find that their eye shadow creases easily. From my own experience I have found that after I have used a make up primer it does make application of foundation particularly easy. It just seems to prep the surface of the skin but as for adding longevity to your make up, I'm not convinced!

The Perils Of Airplane Skin!

2009-12-26T16:56:00.000-08:00

Dear Kate, due to my job I have to fly a lot! The trouble is it really is taking its toll on my skin. How do I care for my skin in the air?

Rachel T.

Dear Rachel,

To arrive at your destination fresh faced and fabulous the work begins long before you check in! Its best to make a few small changes to your diet a few days before you fly by avoiding alcohol and cutting back on caffeine and salt. All of these dehydrate your body and will make your skin look dull and exacerbate puffy eyes. Switch your moisturizer to a richer balm, like my Borage & Calendula Skin Healing Balm. Chock full of goodies like soothing Calendula and anti-inflammatory Borage, it really makes the perfect base. It contains absolutely no essential oils so is perfect for skin that may be extra dry and sensitive due to horrid recycled airplane air!

Up, Up and Away!

On the morning of the flight just moisturize and put on the barest amount of make up (concealer, mascara, lip gloss). Full make up will just make your skin look dingy and tired by the time you reach your destination. Avoid caffeine, alcohol and overly salty airline food (if you can!). Stick to plain, flat water. Spritz face during the flight. My Miracle Spritz is perfect for this as it contains soothing Lavender Flower Water, gorgeous Glycerin and freshening Witch Hazel. Its delightful scent also gets rid of that icky airplane smell! After you have spritzed, pat on some more Borage & Calendula Balm to really lock in that moisture. Just before you land, splash your face with cool water (but avoid looking in the airplane bathroom mirror, that has to be the cruelest lighting known to man!) Then moisturize and apply your make up, a quick sweep of blush will really liven up your skin. Also to combat that nasty dry eyed feeling take some lubricating eye drops (not the anti-redness drops as they will just make your eyes feel a whole lot drier!) to soothe that feeling. Before you know it your at the gate and looking gorgeous!

Broken Capillaries

2009-12-26T16:50:00.000-08:00

Dear Kate, how do I get rid of the red veins that are appearing all around my nose?

Lizzie W.

Dear Lizzie,

Fear not my dear for you are not alone, broken capillaries happen to us all! So you know how to treat them, its best to know what they are and what causes them. Broken capillaries are permanently dilated blood vessels. They are caused by sun exposure, extremes in temperature, overzealous exfoliation, heavy handed facial treatments, even blowing your nose can cause them! Alcohol and spicy foods can also play they're part; as they can cause the face to flush and if indulged in a little too often that flush remains!

Keep It Cool (but not too cool!)

Skin does not like extremes of temperature, so alway ensure when cleansing skin do keep the temperature nice and tepid. Never, ever, ever steam your face or let anyone else steam it for you. I cannot believe that therapists still offer this treatment! A client came to me through her friends' recommendation to help her solve her ongoing battle with facial redness and dry skin. I was shocked to discover that her previous therapist regularly treat her skin with brutal facial steams "to encourage the skins natural oils to flow". During the steam treatment she would also slather the client with petroleum jelly to protect the skin. So an intensive heat treatment combined with skin clogging petroleum; not really the recipe for a dewy glow! I am also angry when clients are given heat treatment facial masks. Heat is NOT GOOD for skin, it might feel good but it really irritates the skin. Treat your skin with lovely tepid temperatures and your skin will thank you.

Can Creams Cure It?

I cannot believe how many creams get away with saying that they remove broken capillaries. Wouldn't you be wary of putting something on your skin that would penetrate deep down into your veins and dissolve them, wouldn't that be kind of dangerous!! No fear, they don't do that, in fact they don't do anything but smell nice and feel good. The only way to get rid of broken capillaries is by a laser treatment. The laser basically zaps the broken capillary and dissolves it,removing it forever. It is very simple and very effective. It should just take one treatment to get rid of the broken capillaries around the nose area, but it isn't unusual to need a second treatment. This procedure must ONLY be undertaken by a qualified medical professional, it is not (I REPEAT, NOT) a salon treatment!

Dealing With The Problem

You can easily disguise the broken capillaries with a yellow tinted concealer. I find that mineral make up is a wonderful tool to camouflage any areas of redness. Please always use a sunblock and always treat your skin with care. Treat your skin with lovely tepid temperatures and your skin will thank you. If you enjoy outdoor pursuits such as sailing and skiing, where you really are facing the elements, it is advisable to use a soothing skin balm under your spf just to add a little bit more protection. I created my Rose Otto Skin Balm to protect my skin from a brutal Calgary winter. Rose Otto essential oil is wonderfully soothing and has a great healing action on even the most sensitive of skin. I come Rose Otto with my infused Rose Petal Almond Oil, a rich and glorious skin protecting oil.

Keep Your Fingers Off Your Face!

2009-12-26T16:11:00.000-08:00

Dear Kate, does touching your face cause spots?

Helena P.

Dear Helena,

Oh God, does this bring back terrible memories? Throughout my teenage years my Mom (who has the most gorgeous skin) would always scream at me "keep your fingers off your face!". Oh I hated that, I wanted to be fidgety in peace but it was never allowed! Now with the benefit of age I know how right (and how irritating) she was! Touching your face during the day can cause breakouts. The culprits are bacteria, viruses, pollutants, chemicals and ink (who said reading the newspaper was good!). Really anything that your hands come into contact with during the day; from keyboards to telephones and door handles. Repeatedly touching your face with unwashed hands can cause microscopic abrasions in the skin that can absorb all these little nasties and cause infections leading to a breakout. To protect your skin keep a little bottle of antibacterial hand gel close by and use throughout the day. Its also a good idea to dollop a bit of the gel onto a tissue and clean the telephone. Telephones can really harbour a wealth of horrid bacteria and can cause breakouts around the jaw area. While you are possessed of the cleaning bug, have a cleansing swipe of your keyboard. The only downside of these antibacterial gels is that they are chock full of alcohol and though powerful bug busters they are incredibly drying so always remember to use a nice and gentle hand balm. My Rosewood Hand Balm combines the antibacterial action of Lavender essential oil with the gentle skin healing action of Rosewood.

Hands Off!

Train yourself to keep your hands off your face. I know its easier said than done, but it is worth it and you will see a difference. You have two ways to tackle this; you could borrow my Mom and she could scream at you every time you touched your face, which though highly effective can be somewhat disruptive in the workplace! Or you could simply dab a drop or two of Lavender essential oil on both wrists. Then when you raise your hands to your face the scent will make you aware of what you are doing and stop. Lavender is also a good choice as if the desire to touch your face is stress/anxiety related as the relaxing scent will calm you and hopefully remove that desire to fidget!

Five Rules For Winter Skin

2009-12-26T15:58:00.000-08:00

You know I do rather like to think of myself as the Ray Mears of skincare., providing you with all all the skills and knowledge you need to look fabulous whatever the world throws at you and winter can be very, very testing! So before you don your snow shoes and head for the bitter outdoors just take a moment to read through my top tips for fabulous winter skin.

Winter takes its toll on your skin and you really need to make that extra bit of effort to protect your skin. But just follow my simple winter skincare rules and your skin reap the benefits from that little bit of extra care.

Rule No 1 - WEAR YOUR SUNSCREEN

I know it’s the middle of a glum English winter but you still need to protect your skin and a decent SPF is the very best skincare purchase you can make. Exposure to the sun (even in the middle of winter) seriously speeds up the ageing process of your skin and makes you prone to developing dry skin, age spots, wrinkles and those horrid spider veins. For daily wear just try a simple SPF 15.

Rule No 2 - MOISTURIZE TO THE MAX!

Its bad enough that not only does your skin have to combat the brutal weather outside but as soon as you step inside any teeny bit of moisture in the air is sucked out by central heating. Dry air can wreak havoc on your skin making it flake and crack (it even makes those pesky fine lines and wrinkles more noticeable). To combat this its absolutely essential that you cosset your skin throughout the day. In the morning apply a lovely rich balm (like Rose Otto Healing Balm) and throughout the day spray your skin with Miracle Spritz, rich in glycerin (vegetable of course) which draws water into the skin and keeps it there. It also helps add a gorgeous finish to make up (especially mineral bases) and keeps your skin refreshed, soft and glowing throughout the day.

RULE NO 3 - BE KIND TO YOUR SKIN

Products that contain active anti-ageing ingredients such as Retinoid's and AHA‘s can really irritate skin making it even drier, itchier and prone to flaking. If you must use them; why not try applying a every alternate evening so your skin is not overwhelmed by those nasty

RULE NO 4 - PUCKER UP!

Don’t forget those delectable lips. Keep your Kiss Balm with you at all times and apply frequently. Frequent application ensures that your lips are soft, supple and totally irresistible!

RULE NO 5 - BATHE IN THE MOISTURE!

Keep your baths and showers short & sweet. A quick dip of about 15 minutes maximum will add moisture to your skin but any longer any your skin will dry out! For extra skin soothing try Nourish Bath Oil. Keep the water warm, not HOT! Hot water strips your skin of its natural protective oils and damages skin cells causing dry, itchy skin. After your bath or shower pat skin dry, this action helps the skin retain moisture and is a far more gentle action to use on sensitive skin. Apply your Nourish Oil or Heavenly Balm as soon as you can to trap any remaining moisture into the skin. By following these simple steps you will see & feel a difference in your skin.

Flawless & Fabulous!

2009-12-26T15:43:00.000-08:00

Polished, flawless and gorgeously fabulous. Yes, that can be you with a little help from some perfectly applied foundation. With a myriad of lovely light diffusing formulas you can say goodbye to those teeny imperfections and glow, glow, glow!

The Secret
Finding the right shade is the key to getting the perfect look. When foundation shopping, take a friend (for an honest opinion). Apply the foundation to your jawline, ideally you want the colour just to disappear into your natural skin tone. Step away from the pink toned foundations; they do not suit anyone! Look for yellow toned shades, they are flattering and realistic.

Application
Tools of the Trade - Foundation Brushes are fabulous, forget about applying with a Make-Up Sponge, they just soak up your liquid foundation and you end up using twice as much! Another tip when buying your Foundation Brush (and ssh! do not tell anyone I told you this!), buy a cheap one (bear with me their is a method to my madness!). A cheap (oh that sounds so horrible!), I mean a reasonably priced Foundation Brush will use synthetic fibres. Synthetic fibres are best for foundation as the liquid is not absorbed (it sits nicely on the bristles) and this allows you to apply the your foundation with ease.

Allow your moisturizer to really sink into your skin before you even think about applying your base. If you apply base straight after your moisturizer it will not last (basically it will slide off before you even leave the house!)
Dot foundation along your forehead, down your nose, along your chin and finally across those gorgeous cheekbones.
With your brush held deftly in your hand start at the centre of your face and blend, blend, blend with short, downward strokes. Working downwards ensures you don't ruffle up those fine facial hairs and also means you will create a lovely smooth finish. Carry on blending and do not forget the jawline and hairline (remember we aren't recreating retro air hostess look!). Concentrate on the jawline and hairline, gently blending away any telltale foundation lines.
Time to camouflage all those teeny tiny imperfections. For dark circles use a light, liquid concealer. Dot on under eye area and gently pat with ring finger to blend. For spots or areas of skin discolouration use a thicker concealer. This is best applied with a small pointed concealer brush. Using a concealer brush allows you to target just the area of redness and avoid that horrid cakey coverage look.
Powder time, ladies! Dip a large, fluffy powder brush in translucent powder. Tap to remove any excess powder and lightly sweep across your forehead, nose and chin. A quick spray of Miracle Spritz will "set" your makeup and add a lovely dewy glow.

There you have it ladies just 5 simple steps for flawless skin, the rest is up to you!

Go For The Glow!

2009-12-26T15:22:00.000-08:00

Don't fear the glow! Subtle self tan can give you that golden glow, rather than a tango glow! Facial tanners can work wonders; they can even out your complexion, help hide any broken capillaries, camouflage acne scars, even make your face look thinner. But you have to apply it correctly, you do not want the colour to look obvious, you just want that delectable Antibes glow. Those with a fair complexion are best suited to the gradual tanners that enable you to build up the glow. Medium to dark complexions can go for the self tanners that develop in a few hours. Self tanners usually give you a little hint to the intensity of the shade, but if in doubt just look at the ingredient listing and the higher DIHYDROXYACETONE appears on the list, the darker the tan will be. Dixydroxyacetone is the stuff that colours your skin. So pick a shade (light, medium, dark) that is closest to your natural skin colour. Remember you can always apply subtle colour boost with either blush or bronzer. And the golden (no pun intended) rule is to ensure you moisturize frequently and reapply the self tan around every three days as this will keep your skin smooth and the colour looking fresh.

Kate's Foolproof Guide to a Golden Glow!

Preparation

Cleanse skin and gently exfoliate. Palmarosa Cleansing Balm is perfect for this as it cleanses skin and gently exfoliates.. Then simply pat dry This gentle exfoliation ensures that any dry skin is removed. Its essential that dry, flaky skin is removed as if left on skin it would absorb colour unevenly making the self tan look icky and fake.

Moisture

If you have used either my Palmarosa Cleansing Balm or Borage Cleanser you can easily skip this step as you skin will be soft, smooth and ready for the self tan. If you have used a foaming cleanser then please apply a thin layer of moisturizer and wait 15 minutes for that to fully absorb.

Application

Splodge a pea size amount of the self tanner on your middle and index fingers (using these fingers will help you to apply the colour a lot more precisely). Dot self tanner on the centre of your forehead, along you cheekbones, down the centre of your nose and on the middle of you chin. Using the same two fingers blend the self tanner from those points out towards your hairline. Work the formula over the jawline and down the neck. Allow the skin to dry for a good 20 minutes before applying make up or heading for bed.

The Day After The Night Before!

When the tan has taken effect, go lightly on the foundation. Just use concealer and maybe even try a tinted moisturizer (with spf please!) that is a shade darker than your regular one. Then sweep on rosy colour blush (or use a sheer cream blush) lightly to replicate that glossy summer glow!

WARNING - just a few tips to keep you glowing!

Do not apply body tanner to the face. Body tanner is usually a thicker formulation and will clog pores.
The downside of facial self tan - It will accentuate any blackheads or pores. So diminish the chance of this happening by using a deep cleansing facial mask the night before application.
Always give the self tan time to dry (about 20 mins). If you go to bed without letting the tan dry sufficiently it will settle rather obviously in the lines on your neck (take this advice from one who has suffered).
When applying make-up to tanned skin make sure to stick to warm make up shades; cool shades look weird but warm bronzes and golds will be oh so fabuloustly flattering.

Make Fake Fabulous!

2009-12-26T15:18:00.000-08:00

All Fake Tans Are Created Equal

Aaah, the miracle of fake tan! Don't be put off by those poor unfortunate souls that turn a terrible shade of tangerine. Used with a little bit of skill, it will make you glow and magically erase that pesky cellulite. All fake tans regardless of price have one thing in common - DIHYDROXYACETONE. Its the stuff that creates the colour and it appears in every single self tanner, be it the priciest aerosol tan or the supermarket self tan lotion. When choosing a self tanner always read the ingredient listing on the bottle. Ingredients have to be listed in order of volume, so the ingredient that appears in the greatest amount is first on the listing, then it works downwards with the last ingredient on the list being the smallest amount of ingredient in the product. With this firmly in mind, the higher that the word DIHYDROXYACETONE appears on the ingredient listing the darker the self tanner will be.

Choosing The Right Shade

When buying a self tanner you really need to take into consideration your natural skin colour. For a lovely, natural and totally believable tan you just need to take your colour just a few shades warmer. Notice I said warmer, not darker! Do not go for the darkest shade of self tanner thinking with just one application you will be ready for the beach. It is so much better to buy a shade that is a tad more natural and reapply each day till you get the shade you are happy with.

Preparation Is Everything

It really is best to apply self tanner in the evening. That way you can take your time, wear your raggiest old jimjams and not ruin any lovely clothes. You must exfoliate thoroughly before you even think about applying self tanner. Dry skin just soaks up the self tanner leading to horrid uneven and unbelievable coverage. After your shower, dry yourself thoroughly and maybe think about applying Nourish Oil to areas that are prone to dry skin, such as elbows, knees, heels and ankles. Then wait for about 10 minutes, this allows your body to cool and the Nourish Oil to really sink in (if any Nourish Oil does remain on skin just pat it dry with a towel). Tie your hair back and put on your gloves this is where it gets really serious.....

Application

Self tanner is best applied in a cool room. You don't want to break a sweat when applying tanner and cause yourself nasty streaks, If applying in your bathroom, open a window and ensure its steam free as this can affect application. If your applying in another room use an old sheet to cover the carpet and any area you want to protect from staining. I always use plastic gloves when applying fake tan and I always buy the smallest size. That way they fit really close to the skin enabling you to apply the tanner with ease. Use a 10p size splat of tanner at a time. Massage into skin with a sweeping horizontal actions, followed by a vertical action. Work the tanner in well, this really makes a difference. Take your time and ensure that the tanner has been absorbed before moving on to the next bit. Start with your legs and then work up, slowly! Make sure that everywhere has been covered. Save the insides of your arms, armpits, elbows, knees, feet and hands till last. A quick swipe of the areas with the residue that remains on your gloves is more than adequate. Blot away any excess lotion with an old towel. If using an aerosol or pump spray its best to stand in the bath to apply. But really the application technique is the same (but read the instructions as some aerosol tans must not be rubbed in!), just spray onto skin from the distance advised on the instructions and rub in just the same as a lotion.

Its A Waiting Game....

You've applied the tanner with great care but now you must wait for 20 minutes at the very least before getting dressed. This is where it gets tricky, you do not want the tanner to settle in any areas (like your lovely curves) causing nasty dark bits. Now unless you want to stand with perfect posture, tummy sucked in and head held high you might like to follow this next fabulously lazy but extremely effective tip. Cover your bed with an old sheet, lie across the bed and let gravity work for you. Its a whole lot easier than standing around for 20 minutes avoiding the furnishings! After allowing the self tanner to dry put on your dingiest old t-shirt and rattiest pajama bottoms, then head for bed.

Tan Maintenance

After bathing or showering don't be too zealous with the towel, give your skin a break and pat dry with a lovely fluffy towel (but don't use those chic white ones!). Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. Once you have applied fake tan you must get into the habit of applying Nourish Oil or Heavenly Balm twice a day. It really does extend the life of the tan and really ensures your skin has a lovely, glossy look.

How Often Do I Apply Fake Tan?

This really is up to you. The first time you apply self tanner it may take you two application (on consecutive evenings) to get the colour you want. When you are happy with the shade as long as you keep moisturizing you can get away with applying just once a week.

Don't Use Body Tanner On Your Face!

A self tanner for the body has a much richer and thicker consistency. It really isn't suitable for the face or neck. Skin is thinner there, much more sensitive and is much quicker to breakout. I really would recommend that you buy a product that is targeted to the face and neck.

Fabulous Facial Massage!

2009-12-26T14:53:00.000-08:00

This simple massage is a really effective way to soothe your skin & get the best result from your facial oil. It’s a simple synergistic blend of massage & acupressure movements. This treatment will stimulate your circulation & kick start cell regeneration ensuring your skin has a fresh, rosy glow.

Technique
Allow your hands to mirror each other in a gentle unhurried way.

Preparation
Cleanse your skin & allow it to rest for 5 minutes. This will ensure your skin has recovered its natural balance and will enable the facial oil to penetrate more efficiently.

Warm Up
Using the thumb & index finger of each hand; start at the inner edge of eyebrows & pinch gently, working outwards towards your ears. Pinch along till you reach the end of your brows. Do twice.Using the same pinching action move hands down to centre of chin and work along jaw to ears.

Facial Massage
Place a small amount of facial oil (remember you only need the tiniest amount) onto the palm of your hand. Dip in fingertips & then gently rub palms together to distribute the oil evenly.

Step One
With one palm resting lightly on the base of your throat and the other palm just below it, gently sweep the palm upwards (one hand following the other). Using the same sweeping motion work outwards to each ear ensuring your neck has been covered with the facial oil.

Step Two
Place palms on your jaw with fingertips resting on cheekbones at each side of nose. With a light sweeping touch, smooth the fingertips up by the sides of the nose, middle of forehead, then down towards temples and back to jawline. Do twice.

Step Three
Place the flat pad of ring finger on inner edge of eyebrow. Using the underlying bone as a guide; start at the inner eyebrow & with a smoothing action work outwards, around cheekbones & back to the top of nose. Do Twice.

Step Four
With the fingertips of each hand touching at the centre of the forehead (arms raised, elbows out) smooth outwards towards temple. Do Twice.

Step Five
With fingertips on temples slowly work in circular motion. Do Twice.

Step Six
With fingertips at both sides of nostril and using cheekbone as your guide use a comfortable pressure to sweep fingertips upwards towards ears. Do Twice.

Step Seven
With flat pad of fingers use small gentle circular motions around the face & neck (but avoid delicate eye area). Then with a gentle tapping action (like tapping a keyboard, but quicker!) use the pads of your fingers to tap all around face & neck. Gently tap eye area (working outwards towards ears) it’s a great depuffing trick! Alternate these two moves for about a minute.

Step Eight
With the back of one hand gently pat under your chin. Do about thirty.

Step Nine
Repeat steps 1 & 2.

Step Ten
Then starting at top of ears, using thumb and index finger pinch around your ear working all the way down to your lobe. This is a lovely way to finish the massage as all your reflexology points are present on the ear lobe, so this simple action will refresh and restore.

Cleansing 101

2009-12-26T14:42:00.001-08:00

My cleansing routine may seem a little bit different to what you are used to, but believe me that extra minute or so of gentle cleansing will reward you with a naturally gorgeous glow.
Cleansing your skin is quite simply the most important step in your skincare routine. Gentle cleansing will ensure that dead skin cells, excess oil, dirt & makeup are removed. Your skin's natural oil (sebum) needs to flow freely onto your skin to perform its own natural moisturizing and healing action. If skin has not been cleansed effectively, your pores get blocked, the natural oil becomes trapped causing infection and breakouts to occur. If skin has not been well cleansed it does take on a dingy appearance with the development of blackheads, whiteheads & enlarged pores. On the other hand overzealous cleansing damages skin and causes sensitivity, dry patches and excess sebum production.

Cleansing Technique
I divide cleansing into an am & pm routine. Your morning cleanse need not be too rigorous, you just simply need to remove any surface oils or excess product that may remain on your skin and ensure your skin is perfectly prepared for the day ahead.

Be Kind To Yourself!
Remember we aren't trying to recreate the opening scene from Mommie Dearest here, gentle is the key word! I am always shocked when new clients tell me of their cleansing routine be it harsh products or harsh action. Scrubs are for kitchen floors not gorgeous faces! Harsh treatment will only upset your skin, while a gentle soothing touch will ensure a fresh and fabulous glow! The aim of the cleanse is to gently remove any surface debris and free the pores to release their own natural moisturizer.

Morning Cleanse
Skin needs just a gentle cleanse in the morning, it certainly doesn't need to be overwhelmed by a myriad of irritating products.

Step One
Simply fill a basin with warm water and add 20 drops of Rose Skin Tonic. Swish & swirl this skin balancing blend into the water. Soak a clean, cotton flannel in the water, wring out and place the flannel over your face & neck for about 10 seconds. This simple step will warm up your skin, stimulate circulation and attract any skin debris to the flannel. Rinse & wring out the flannel.

Step Two
Fold the flannel into a small rectangle then covering one section of skin at a time gently press flannel into skin, roll and release. Repeat this action around face & neck. Finally splash face & neck for 30 seconds and pat your skin dry with a soft, fluffy towel (keep your own separate towel especially for skincare). DO NOT share a towel or use any old towel that's just hanging around! Make your cleansing routine a real ritual and a spirited start to the day. Allow your skin to rest for about 5 minutes before applying your SPF and make up.

Evening Cleanse
Your evening cleanse is absolutely essential to remove all the dirt & debris of the day. I don't care how tired you are (sorry I was a bit bossy then!) but if you do only one thing for your skin make it a thorough cleanse in the evening.

Step One
Place the clean, soft flannel in a basin of warm water. Warm the cleanser in the palm of your hand. Just taking the time to warm the Borage Cleansing Oil or Palmarosa Cleansing Balm makes the cleanse so much more effective. A warm product clings to the debris on your skin making your cleansing routine a lot more thorough.

Step Two
With the cleanser distributed evenly in your hands, sweep the cleanser upwards over your neck, jawline, sides of nose & forehead.

Step Three
Then sweep outwards towards temples and back down past cheekbones down to the centre of jaw. With a small circular action using the pads of your fingers work product into skin of face & neck.

Step Four
Use this same action around your eye area. Since you are using a gentle touch combined with a smooth and gentle cleanser, don't worry you will not drag or damage this delicate area at all.
Using this simple, circular technique will ensure that your skin circulation is boosted, giving it a helping hand in eliminating its own dirt and debris that will clog pores.

Step Five
Once the cleanser has been gently massaged into skin, wring out the flannel and place over face & neck for about 10 seconds. This simple step will warm up your skin, stimulate circulation and attract any skin debris to the cloth. Rinse & wring out cloth. Fold cloth into a small rectangle then covering one section of skin at a time gently press cloth into skin, roll and release. Repeat this action around face & neck.

Step Six
Final Rinse - Fill basin with fresh, warm water and add 20 drops of Rose Skin Tonic. Swish & swirl this skin balancing blend into the water. Then proceed to splash face & neck for 30 seconds. This will ensure every little bit of debris & excess cleanser is removed. Rose Skin Tonic is a simple blend, which is a totally natural yet utterly effective skin ph balancer with a lovely antibacterial action.

Step Seven
Pat skin dry with a clean towel and wait about 5 minutes before applying your facial oil. Waiting just a few minutes before applying the next step of your skincare routine allows your skin to recover its natural balance, making it in the perfect state to receive the most nourishment from your facial oil.

Smooth, Smooth Skin!

2009-12-26T14:12:00.000-08:00

Summer is just around the corner and you can no longer hide under layers and layers and layers of winter clothes. But have no fear as there is one guaranteed way to see (and feel) a real difference in your skin and that my dear friend is the simple routine of exfoliation. Its cheap and easy and the results are terrific! You do not (repeat DO NOT) have to purchase any overpriced and irritating product as you can make your own and it is oh so very simple.

Kate's Fab Weekly Exfoliating Routine

You Will Need
A body brush (natural bristles please!)
About 4 tbsp or so of Nourish Oil (Fennel Nourish Oil is perfect)
About 3 tbsp or so of lovely processed granulated sugar. It may rot your teeth but it does wonders for your thighs (as long as you don't eat it!).

Lock yourself away in the bathroom, this is serious work and you must not be disturbed!

Step One
Apply the Nourish Oil (by the way did I mention you had to take your clothes off?) all over your body with an upward, sweeping action. Then go into massage mode; on fleshy bits like upper arms, thighs and bottom, use a lovely deep kneading action. On bony bits use a gentle circular action. Just taking a minute or so to do this will warm up your skin and make it more receptive to the scrub.

Step Two
Beginning at your feet gently sweep a dry, natural body brush upwards over your skin. When body brushing always work towards the heart. Use short and very light strokes with the body brush, remember you are not scrubbing the floor! Make sure every inch of you has been brushed. This simple step will liven up your skin and ensure the body oil is distributed to bits you may have missed.

Step Three
This is the messy bit, so step into the shower (but don't run any water yet!). Starting at the toes again and working upwards with a mixture of circular and upward sweeping action apply the sugar. Sugar makes the perfect exfoliator as it doesn't sting if it gets into a cut or scratch (unlike salt!) and dissolves incredibly easily. Its also the perfect texture for exfoliation. This exfoliation routine should feel pleasantly scratchy and not at all painful, so easy does it! Pay real attention to all the extra dry bits like heels, knees and elbows. Once you are all sugared up, its time to rinse off.

Step Four
Run the shower but keep the water warm, not hot. Hot water feels lovely but it is incredibly drying. So save your skin, cut down your energy bill and feel a bit smug 'cos you've done your bit for the environment! Rinse off the scrub and continue your shower with a gentle body wash. When you step out of the shower, pat yourself dry with a lovely, soft fluffy towel. Leave your skin slightly damp and then apply your regular body oil or moisturizer and lock in all that lovely moisture.

Step Five
Now relax and admire your smooth, delectable skin or better yet, you relax and let someone else admire it for you!