WHAT IS ACNE?
Besides being annoying, frustrating and seemingly never-ending, Acne is technically an inflammatory disorder of the sebaceous glands (wow bet you feel better now!). Its incredibly common and can strike at any age. Though it tends to rear its ugly head around puberty, it can strike in your twenties, thirties and beyond. Breakouts tend to occur where sebaceous glands are most prominent - face, back & chest. Its characterised by this wonderful group of delightful carbuncles:
COMEDONES
Also known as blackheads and whiteheads. Blackheads appear when the opening of the hair follicle becomes blocked with dead skin cells, oil and bacteria. A blackhead is not dirt, the contents of the follicle become dark when exposed to air. Whiteheads (not to be confused with Milia, more of that later!). These are very similar to blackheads accept that the opening is covered so the contents are not exposed to the air. They take on a slightly raised appearance (you can feel them if you run your fingers over your skin) and are filled with an icky white pus.
PAPULES
A small raised angry red bump that is created when a pore ruptures due to the release of oil, skin cells and other debris. Bacteria infects the pore and voila a startlingly horrid zit appears. If the inflammation really takes hold an absolutely horrendous pustule is created (in other words a whacking great pus filled spot) that not only fills the pimple with pus but extends well below skin surface to spread its horrid wrath!
PUSTULES
The nasty big brother of the papule. Again they are very red, very tender and usually filled with white pus in the centre.
NODULES
Horrible, horrible, horrible! These dreadful lumps are located just under the skin surface, they feel incredibly solid and incredibly painful when you touch them.
CYSTS
These are the nastiest of all breakouts. Very painful, pus filled lumps that are just beneath the surface of the skin. You must see your Doctor if a breakout of this type occurs as incorrect treatment (such as picking and squeezing) will worsen infection and cause serious scarring.
HOW IS ACNE CAUSED?
There are three main factors that are to blame for breakouts.
- Excess Production of Sebum - Sebum is essential to healthy skin, it provides a protective layer and acts as your skins natural moisturizer but when production gets out of control that’s when the trouble really starts. I’m afraid its time to get hormonal and its all down to testosterone (and believe it or not this manly little hormone is present in women too!). Some of us are incredibly reactive to the presence of testosterone. Sensitivity to testosterone causes sebum production to go into overdrive and as a consequence excess oil is produced.
- Slow Shedding of Skin Cells - In a perfect world, dead skin cells should slough off naturally but in reality they don’t. Though a good cleansing routine certainly helps the process; sometimes dead skin cells and other debris collect in the hair follicle causing irritation and creating the ideal breeding ground for zit causing bacteria.
- Bacteria Buildup - The bacteria that causes acne (Propionibacterium Acnes) happily resides on everyone’s skin and usually causes absolutely no problems at all. But add in the previous two problems and you create the perfect environment for a breakout to occur. The bacteria multiplies, inflammation ensues and a breakout occurs.
Other factors that may cause breakouts
- Hormonal changes - These really have an effect on the amount of testosterone produced so acne breakouts tend to occur in teenage years (that lovely rollercoaster ride of horrid hormonal fluctuation), breakouts also occur 4-5 days before the start of your period. Also don’t think that pregnancy will guarantee you glowing skin as hormonal disruption means that a breakout may well occur.
- Medications - If you are currently using medication, check with your Dr as some meds (such as cortisone) can cause breakouts.
- Family History - Yes, I’m afraid acne can be hereditary; so its something else you can blame on your parents.
- Harsh Cleansing Products - Acne breakouts should be treat gently, forget all the harsh products. Chemical laden products just dry out the skin and irritate it even further (remember it is an inflammatory condition). Scrubbing away at the skin and constantly bombarding it with harsh products only makes matters worse.
- Pressure on the skin - Items of clothing like tight collars, bra straps and such like put constant pressure on your skin. This friction just irritates and add to that just a dash of sweat and you have the perfect formula for a breakout. Also make sure that your telephones are kept scrupulously clean, give them a wipe over each day with an antibacterial wipe as they do harbour a platoon of icky bacteria.
Can Acne Be Cured?
It can’t be cured but you can keep it under control with some simple changes.
Kate’s Golden Rules for Acne Prevention
- Teat your skin with care, use a simple cleansing routine and please avoid those horrid cleansing wipes. I know they “save time” but they do not clean your skin effectively and still leave trace amounts of dirt, make-up and cleanser from the wipe on your face. Avoid irritating products such as scrubs, astringents and chemical laden “miracle cures”. Also make sure that your hair care products stay on your hair. Its easy for hair serums, sprays, etc to end up on your forehead and on sides of face. These are pretty tough products and they will irritate your skin.
- Always remove make up before bed.
- Don’t dry your skin on any old towel, keep a fresh, clean towel to one side and use it to pat dry your face after cleansing (Don‘t Share It!!!).
- Stay out of the sun. The sun worsens acne and slows down the healing process. Plus, if you are using a harsh skincare regimen, you will be more susceptible to the damaging power of UV.
- Don’t ever pick or squeeze spots. I know at times you just can’t resist but please BE STRONG. Picking, scratching and squeezing spots will cause the infection to go deeper into skin and spread the infection. Also constant fiddling with the zit will only extend the life of the spot and may cause scarring.